Donpa: Cold water Dutch drip coffee in Ginza

Donpa exterior

Tokyo is awash with delicious hot coffee brewed drip by drip through paper filters, “neru” flannel filters, vacuum-powered drip filters, and even pressed through those French contraptions. But precious little coffee is produced by the time-consuming, cold water “drop-by-drop” technique known as the “Dutch” method here in Japan.

Donpa glass containersFor seven hours, cold water moves from the topmost bowling ball-sized glass globe, held secure in its four-post wooden frame and held aloft by a woven rope net, down into a smaller beer can-sized cylindrical vessel, then lower down into the bottommost baseball-sized chamber, which empties abruptly horizontally right and left through some metal plumbing and then vertically earthward again through two needle valves each regulated by a control knob to allow a certain number of drops per minute.

This cold fusion of water and ground coffee produces a soft brew free of aku, the scum or foam that forms when cooking a nabe pot, declares the explanation posted below the apparatus.

Unlike the short aggressive chemical reactions produced by scalding water and bean, the cool lengthy commingling of still water and bean produces a milder, less bitter, and less acid brew.

Donpa coffeeOf course, this concentrated coffee essence must be diluted and reheated before serving. And this year, Donpa celebrates 40 years of serving such mizu kohi, or water coffee, in Tokyo.

Besides the unusual Dutch drip method, Donpa adds another touch to their coffee experience: natural cinnamon essence which marries very successfully with their soft mellow brew.

The place is a comfortable oasis from crowds of the Ginza. The flooring is with well-worn black hardwood. The dark tables and chairs are chipped and smoothed by decades of use.

Customers of all persuasions and generations stop by Donpa. The menu offers uncinnamoned coffees as well in all styles, plus tea, milk, and juices. Cinnamon toast or cheese toast or jam toasts of various seasonal fruits are served, as are house-made cakes and cookies.

Unfortunately, smoking is allowed in the large open room. Nevertheless, the room is well ventilated and keeping your lungs and taste buds relatively smoke free is not an issue.

donpa customer sleeping

Napping seems to be allowed. Just order a coffee, put your head on the table, and catch forty winks.

Donpa also sells beans, ground coffee, and the cold-brewed coffee essence if you want to make some at home.

Donpa: 3-4-16 Ginza, Chuo Ward. Tel: 03.3567.3189.

Open daily 10am to 10:30pm. Saturdays 11am to 10:30 pm. Sundays and holidays 11am to 10pm.

You can fine Donpa two backstreets behind the Apple Store and Chanel.

One Response to “Donpa: Cold water Dutch drip coffee in Ginza”

  1. Paul Says:

    Great post. The cold drip and filter coffee culture in Japan is great and provide a nice counterbalance to the espresso style that most in the west are accustomed to.

Leave a Reply